If there is a dessert more festive than a Swiss roll, I’ve yet to be introduced. A Swiss roll — which also answers to the name “jelly roll” or “roulade” — is a rolled sponge cake filled with either ...

One of my earliest memories is of sitting in my grandmother’s lap, holding a jelly doughnut. I’d lick the jiggly red sweetness from the center, then hand her back the empty shell. Without the jelly, a ...